Finding the right kicker motor steering link makes a massive difference when you're out on the water trying to maintain a steady troll. It's one of those small pieces of hardware that you don't really think about until it's binding up or vibrating while you're trying to stay on the fish. If you've ever spent a long day at the transom manually hovering over a tiller handle while the rest of your buddies are sitting comfortably in the cockpit, you know exactly why these little linkage systems are such a game-changer.
The whole point of a kicker motor steering link is to slave your small trolling motor to your main engine. This allows you to steer from the helm using your steering wheel, which is a lot more relaxing than wrestling with a tiller in a following sea. Let's dive into what makes these things work, why they sometimes fail, and how to get yours dialed in so you can focus on the rod tips instead of the steering.
Why a Steering Link is a Must-Have
Let's be honest: trolling for hours on end is exhausting if you're stuck in the back of the boat. Most guys who have a kicker motor—usually a 9.9hp or 15hp outboard—install it right next to their big 150hp or 250hp main engine. Without a link, you're stuck either using a long tiller extension or literally sitting on the transom.
By installing a simple rod—the kicker motor steering link—you connect the two engines. When you turn the steering wheel at the dash, the main engine moves, and the kicker follows along in perfect synchronization. It's a simple mechanical solution to a problem that used to require expensive hydraulic setups. Plus, it keeps the weight distribution of the boat better because you're sitting at the helm rather than weighing down the corner of the stern.
Different Styles of Linkages
Not every kicker motor steering link is built the same way. Depending on your boat's layout and how often you remove your kicker, you might want one style over another.
The Standard Tie-Bar
The most common version is just a solid stainless steel bar with ball joints on either end. One end attaches to the main engine's steering arm, and the other attaches to the kicker. These are great because they're incredibly durable. If you buy a high-quality stainless steel kit, it'll probably outlast the boat. The downside? If you don't have a quick-disconnect feature, it can be a bit of a pain to unhook when you want to tilt the engines independently.
Quick-Disconnect Links
This is what I usually recommend for most weekend anglers. These links use a spring-loaded ball socket. You can pop the link off in about two seconds without any tools. This is huge if you frequently find yourself needing to tilt the kicker all the way up while the main engine is down, or if you take the kicker off the boat for storage. You don't want to be fumbling with wrenches at the boat ramp at 5:00 AM.
Front-Mount vs. Rear-Mount
Depending on how much clearance you have between your engines and the transom, you'll have to decide where the link sits. A front-mount link attaches to the steering flip-up bracket on the front of the motors. A rear-mount usually attaches to the back of the engine cowlings or the lifting eyes. Most people prefer the front-mount because it stays out of the way of the fuel lines and battery cables that usually clutter up the back of the splash well.
Getting the Alignment Right
This is where most people get frustrated. If your kicker motor steering link isn't adjusted to the right length, your boat is going to pull to one side constantly. It's a bit like the alignment on your truck; if it's off by even a quarter-inch, you'll be fighting the wheel all day.
The trick is to make sure both engines are perfectly dead-center before you lock down the link. I've found that it helps to have a buddy hold the main engine straight while you adjust the threaded ends of the link rod. You want the kicker to be exactly parallel to the main engine. If they're "toe-in" or "toe-out," the boat will track strangely, and you'll lose a bit of steering authority when you're trying to make tight turns while trolling against the wind.
Installation Tips for the DIY Boater
You don't really need a professional mechanic to install a kicker motor steering link, but there are a few things that can go sideways if you aren't careful.
First, check your clearances. Before you tighten everything down, tilt both engines all the way up and all the way down. Then, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock. You'd be surprised how often a link rod will hit the transom or pinch a hydraulic hose when the engines are tilted at a certain angle. You want to make sure that the rod has a clear path of travel throughout the entire range of motion.
Second, use some marine-grade grease on the ball joints. Saltwater is brutal on these moving parts. Even if the rod is stainless, the ball and socket can seize up over time if they're bone dry. A little bit of grease every few months keeps the steering feeling smooth and prevents that annoying "creak" every time you turn the wheel.
Dealing with Vibration and Noise
One common complaint with a kicker motor steering link is the noise. Because the two engines are physically connected, the vibrations from the kicker can sometimes travel through the link bar, through the main engine, and right into the hull. It can create a low-frequency hum that drives some people crazy.
If you're dealing with this, look for a link rod that has some sort of nylon or rubber bushing in the ends. Some of the cheaper kits are just metal-on-metal, which is a recipe for rattle. You can also try adding a small rubber washer at the attachment points to dampen the vibration. It's a small tweak, but it makes the cockpit a lot quieter during those long, silent mornings on the lake.
Maintenance and Safety
It's easy to forget about the kicker motor steering link once it's installed, but you should really give it a look every time you pre-check your boat. Check the cotter pins or the locking nuts. I've seen more than one guy lose his steering connection because a vibration shook a nut loose, and the rod fell into the drink. If that happens while you're under power, the kicker can flop to one side suddenly, which isn't exactly great for your prop or your peace of mind.
Also, keep an eye out for any bending. If you accidentally hit a submerged log or a rock with your kicker, the force can sometimes bend the steering link. A bent rod will mess up your steering geometry and make the boat handle like a shopping cart with a bad wheel. If it's bent, don't try to hammer it straight—just replace it. Stainless steel gets brittle once it's been bent and straightened back out.
Why Quality Hardware Matters
It's tempting to go to the hardware store, buy a piece of threaded rod, and try to rig up a DIY kicker motor steering link. I've seen it done, and honestly, it rarely ends well. Standard hardware store steel will rust in a heartbeat, even in freshwater.
Investing in a proper marine-grade kit is worth the extra fifty bucks. You want 304 or 316 stainless steel. You want joints that are designed to handle the torque of an engine trying to turn in heavy chop. When you're three miles offshore and the wind picks up, the last thing you want to deal with is a snapped steering link leaving you with a kicker motor that's stuck in a hard turn.
Wrapping It Up
At the end of the day, a kicker motor steering link is all about making your time on the water more enjoyable. It takes the physical labor out of trolling and lets you use the precision of your boat's main steering system. Whether you're chasing walleye in the Great Lakes or salmon in the Pacific Northwest, having your engines synced up is a massive quality-of-life upgrade.
Just take the time to measure twice, grease the joints, and check your clearances. Once you get it dialed in, you'll wonder how you ever managed to fish without one. It's a simple, effective, and relatively cheap upgrade that turns a basic trolling setup into a professional-feeling fishing machine. Keep an eye on those connections, stay on top of the grease, and you'll be set for seasons to come.